Reading through "Paean to Sid Meier's Alpha Centauri", which seems to be another writer that takes their subject seriously.
Video game criticism is interesting, since it needs to avoid the twin pitfalls of "ignore the mechanics" and "focus only on the mechanics and how fun it was to play." Good criticism needs a way of relating the mechanics to other elements of the game, and what combined message they relate. Toss in box art, controller experience, and franchise context as well.
And whoever can do that properly, needs to tackle the whole Hideo Kojima oeuvre.